Loose leash walking sounds simple: your dog walks beside you without pulling. But in practice, it’s one of the most difficult skills to master. It’s not just about stopping your dog from pulling. It’s about building awareness, focus, and consistency in a highly stimulating environment.
In my program, leash work comes later. That’s intentional. By the time we get here, you’ve already learned to mark behaviors, use clear cues, and read your dog’s body language. You’ve built a foundation of trust, communication, and consistency. All of that matters when you clip on the leash and step outside.
This guide is here to show you how I approach leash training. You’ll learn how gear affects the physics of pulling, how to reinforce the right leash habits, and what to expect from your dog during this process. You’ll also learn a few core routines and cues that shape the way your dog moves with you.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
- How to choose the right gear and how equipment changes the physics of pulling
- How to teach and use leash tension feedback to discourage pulling
- When to use the “Easy” cue and how to follow through with it
- How to use U-turns to reset attention and direction
- Building focus and responsiveness with check-ins and clicker training
- How to create structure and freedom using cues like Sit, Wait, and Check-In
- The role of enrichment on walks and how it channels energy, prey drive, and engagement
Leash training takes time. It’s not about perfect 30-minute walks from day one. It’s about short, focused sessions that build real-world behavior over time. What matters most is that you stay consistent, clear, and patient.
Equipment Matters: Harnesses and Leashes
The gear you use plays a direct role in how your dog behaves on leash. There’s real physics behind how pressure is applied and how a dog responds to it. Let’s break it down.
Collars and Back-Clip Harnesses
A leash clipped to a collar creates a pressure point on the neck. Many dogs will still pull through that pressure, even while choking themselves, because the forward movement is rewarding. This is why chokers or prong collars are not just ineffective, but also risky.
Back-clip harnesses often make pulling worse. The leash attachment point encourages a sled-dog posture, allowing the dog to lean forward and power through. For strong pullers, it can actually make things harder to manage.
Front-Clip Harnesses
Chest-clip harnesses offer more control. They redirect the dog’s momentum by turning their body when they pull, interrupting that forward drive. I recommend dual-clip harnesses like the PetSafe’s 3-in-1 Dog or Blue-9’s Balance Harness. They fit snugly, adjust well, and allow you to switch between front and back clips depending on your training goals.
Leashes
Have both a 6-foot leash and a 10-foot leash in your toolkit.
- The 6-ft leash is ideal for training. I recommend one with a traffic handle for extra control in public or crowded spaces.
- The 10-ft leash gives your dog more freedom for sniffing and enrichment. Used correctly, it can actually reduce pulling. Just be sure you’ve already practiced basic leash manners and can manage the added distance.
Avoid retractable leashes and bungee-style leashes. Retractables are dangerous, prone to failure, and offer no feedback. Bungee leashes teach dogs that gradual pulling gets them more distance, which directly undermines leash training.
Waist-Leash Setups
A waist-leash or utility belt can give you better balance and free up your hands. I personally use the Kurgo Utility Belt with their training pouch. If your dog is large or reactive, be cautious and make sure you can control them safely with your body weight.
Head Halters
Head halters like the Gentle Leader or Halti offer another level of control for strong pullers or dogs with reactivity. These tools work by gently guiding the dog’s head. When the head turns, the body tends to follow, which makes it easier to interrupt pulling or redirect attention.
However, head halters require careful conditioning. Some dogs find them uncomfortable at first. Introduce the halter slowly, using high-value treats. Let your dog wear it for short periods during training, and gradually build duration. Always pair the halter with something positive.
When used correctly, head halters can dramatically improve control on walks. They’re especially useful for dogs that lunge or pull hard. Make sure to clip the leash to both the halter and the dog’s collar for safety. Head halters are not ideal for casual sniff walks or extended freedom, but they can be a powerful training tool.
The Golden Rule: Never Allow Your Dog to Pull You
This is the foundation of leash training. If your dog pulls and you follow, they learn that pulling works. That’s why your first job is to prevent reinforcement.
Pulling should never result in forward movement. That’s the rule. Instead, we teach leash tension feedback. The more the dog pulls, the more you slow or stop. The moment leash tension eases, you mark and move forward. That’s how we shape behavior.
Leash Tension Feedback
Start by using a delta marker like “Easy” to alert your dog when they start pulling. This is a neutral cue that says, “that choice isn’t working.” If the dog continues to pull, you slow down. If that doesn’t work, come to a stop.
If your dog is still pulling after you stop, gently pull the leash toward you by one or two feet to regain slack. As soon as tension eases, mark it with praise like “Good,” then resume walking. Over time, your dog learns that loose leash = forward movement.
Eventually, the feedback alone becomes enough. The dog begins to respond to the change in your pace or the feel of tension in the leash. That’s the goal. The cue “Easy” starts as a prompt, but fades into a silent communication.
Using U-Turns to Reset
If your dog is repeatedly pulling despite the feedback loop, use a U-turn. Change direction, and invite your dog to follow you with enthusiasm: “This way!”
U-turns serve as a reset. They break your dog’s momentum and shift their focus back to you. If done a few times in a row, it reminds the dog to stay more tuned in. Just don’t overuse it. If U-turns aren’t working, look deeper: gear may be off, the dog may be overstimulated, or you may need to revisit basic cues.
Building Focus: Reinforcing Eye Contact
Check-ins are one of the most useful leash walking behaviors. A check-in simply means your dog looks up and makes eye contact with you. It’s a subtle but powerful way for a dog to say, “I’m paying attention.”
Start indoors. Hold a high-value treat at your dog’s nose, then slowly move it up to your eyes. When your dog looks at you, mark and reward. Once consistent, add the verbal cue “Check in.” Eventually, you fade the hand lure and rely on the verbal alone.
Practice check-ins as part of daily routines. Ask for one before opening the door, crossing the street, or moving toward a favorite spot. Over time, your dog learns that eye contact is a necessary part of earning access.
On walks, mark organic check-ins with a clicker and reward them heavily. For the first two weeks, pay 100 percent of the time. You’re building a psychological tether that keeps the dog connected to you.
As it becomes habitual, challenge the dog with more distractions, longer durations, and fewer prompts. With enough reinforcement, check-ins become second nature.
Adding Obedience and Enrichment
Once you’ve built up check-ins and leash feedback, layer in obedience cues during walks. Ask for Sits and Waits before crossing streets. Use cues like “With Me” or “Sniff” to give structure and choice.
The walk isn’t just a workout. It’s a chance to practice responsiveness in real-world settings. Dogs that can shift between freedom and structure tend to be more relaxed and focused.
Final Thoughts
Leash work isn’t a quick fix. It’s a slow build that relies on mechanics, timing, and consistency. There’s no single cue that solves everything. But if you stick with the core principles—no pulling, clear feedback, strong reinforcement—the skill becomes automatic.
Your job is to create clarity. Your dog’s job is to respond. Over time, that becomes a rhythm. And that rhythm is what turns a stressful walk into a calm and connected one.
